Detroit a study in contrasts

photo: Vito Palmisano

Amid the boarded-up buildings and weed-choked lots are oases of culture and cuisine

Big cities are generally not for the faint-of-heart tourist. Sure Paris has the Tuileries, but it also smells like a toilet. New York has museums but it also has muggings. (I actually witnessed one on a trip there years ago). So if you’re looking for a perfectly picturesque getaway, an urban destination is probably not for you. But if you like to dig into the corners to find worthwhile experiences, Detroit should be on your list.

End of summer offers jazz bounty

Jazz fans in the Toronto region shouldn’t despair because the big local jazz festivals are over. There’s still plenty of music within easy reach, especially if you enjoy a little drive or train ride.

The main festival that has caught my eye is the Detroit Jazz Festival on the Labour Day weekend. Although it’s only three-and-a-half days long, the festival packs a huge and varied amount of music and events into that time, with performances on five stages in a relatively compact area.

For the best food in New Orleans, look to the road

This gallery contains 5 photos.

I took my very first trip to New Orleans recently. Why I waited so long I don’t know, because it is a town that does a lot of things right – hospitality, architectural preservation, music and above all, food. New … Continue reading →

Musical connections in the land of the Mayans

Perhaps it’s because I was in ancient Mayan territory and feeling a little mystical, but when I was at the Riviera Maya Jazz Festival (RMJF) at the end of November, I kept noticing the myriad connections between the performers in this year’s lineup. Coincidence? I don’t think so.

So with apologies to Toltex (the God of Chaos) and Kevin Bacon, here is a six-degrees-of-separation guide to the highlights of the RMJF 2010.

Eldar Djangirov

Although he wasn’t there in person, Chick Corea’s spirit and musical influence could be felt in a number of the performances during the four-day festival. Young piano phenom Eldar Djangirov was one of the stand-out acts of the fest and the influence of Chick Corea on his playing and composing shone through–especially in the second song of his set, “Exposition.” Now 23 years old, Djangirov can no longer claim child prodigy status, but the dazzling technical skills that caught the attention of Marion McPartland and caused her to invite him on her renowned Piano Jazz show on NPR when he was only 11, were evident throughout his set of standards and originals.

The Manhattan Transfer

The Manhattan Transfer opened their set with “Spain” which is pretty much Corea’s anthem and is the second track from the Transfer’s recent Grammy-nominated Chick Corea Songbook. They performed two more songs from that disc during their headline appearance, along with selections from many phases of their 40-year career. Demonstrating they’ve still got the vocal chops they’re renowned for, the group covered do-wop, swing, be-bop, vocalese and samba, including my favourite song from their disc Brasil “Soul Food To Go” by Brazilian singer-songwriter Djavan.

Ivan Lins (projected on video screen)

Another songwriter featured on Brasil was Ivan Lins, who headlined the first night of the RMJF. After being introduced and fussing with his set-up and tinkering with the sound, Lins finally settled in and gave us a beautiful show of romantic Brazilian ballads and sambas for which he is so well-known. Lins had put together a band especially for the show made up of Mexican percussionist Armando Montiel, Cuban percussionist Luis Conte, and brothers Eugenio and Enrique Toussaint (on piano and bass respectively) based in Playa del Carmen where the RMJF takes place every year. Lins finished his set with the Weather Report hit, “Birdland” (also famously covered by the Manhattan Transfer).
John McLaughlin must have been feeling the mystical Mayan connection thing too, because when asked before his concert on Saturday night why he based his new album To the One on John Coltrane’s classic A Love Supreme, he said he couldn’t really explain it. “I’ve noticed parallels between Coltrane’s life and my own – not the music necessarily. I’m not sure why.” His concert gave us no clues either, but it did give us vintage McLaughlin as his band the 4th Dimension (Gary Husband, keyboards, Etienne M’Bappe, bass, and Mark Mondesir, drums) started with a meditative slow groove, then moved through a tribute to Carlos Santana, “Senor,” then on to some straight ahead post-bop jazz, with McLaughlin’s blistering guitar work overarching all.

In the 80s and 90s McLaughlin famously played for several years in a trio with flamenco guitar god Paco de Lucia and Al Di Meola, who headlined on the Friday night of the fest. Earlier in the day, Di Meola – who for years played with Corea in the supergroup Return to Forever – talked about how for the last 10 years he’d lately been focusing on the music of the famous Argentinean tango composer Astor Piazzolla. Di Meola played a nylon-string guitar throughout his gorgeous set, but he still managed to coax some of his trademark fire from the usually mellow-sounding instrument. A truly global band accompanied the guitarist on his multinational musical journey including U.S.-based percussionist Gumbi Ortiz, guitarist Kevin Sedecki from France, Hungarian drummer Peter Kaszasand and Cuban bassist Victor Miranda. But it was Italian Fausto Beccolossi who made the most impact with his evocative accordion playing summoning up Pizzaolla’s spirit with every sensual squeeze of the bellows.

Mike Stern

McLaughlin was one of the first electric guitarists to play with Miles Davis as he, along with Chick Corea, helped shape the ground-breaking Bitches Brew. Later in his career, Davis brought in guitarist Mike Stern who, along with Dave Weckl, Tom Kennedy and Bob Malach, kicked off the RMJF in fine fusion form. With Weckl showing why he’s been named to Modern Drummer’s hall of fame, the band played off each other inventively and had all the heads in the (mostly) young audience nodding in time.

George Duke

George Duke has performed with or produced just about everyone, including Miles Davis on his Grammy-winning album Tutu, but when it was Duke’s turn to take the stage, nobody was thinking too much about that because we knew it was time to get down. Dancing in flip-flops isn’t easy, but when he got out the “Dukey Stick” we had to get up and make sure even the cruise ships going by way out there beyond the beach felt the funky vibes.

In its 7th year, the Riviera Maya Jazz Festival line-up for 2010 was one of the strongest yet, making it one of the premier festivals on the jazz calendar. With its combination of relaxing beach setting and intelligent programming, music fans should all be adding it their “must do” list.

Tropical jazz festival offers cultural alternative

It begins to tell,
’round midnight, ’round midnight.
I do pretty well, till after sundown,
Suppertime I’m feelin’ sad.
But it really gets bad,
’round midnight. – Thelonius Monk

The Manhattan Transfer performing at the Riviera Maya Jazz Festival

I find one of the biggest challenges when travelling on my own is figuring out what to do with myself in the evenings. During the day I can find plenty to do, whether taking a language class, going on excursions or just lolling in a cafe reading and eavesdropping.

But after dinner’s done, I often find myself asking “Now what?” Sometimes I’ll brave a bar on my own–especially if it has live music–but there’s nothing quite like hanging around a place where friends are together having a great time to make you feel like an outsider.

And there’s also the Lothario factor. You know the guy. He thinks any woman on her own is fair game and must be dying for whatever it is he’s offering and won’t leave you alone no matter how firmly you reject his advances. Awkward.

But I’ve discovered a nice alternative to sitting in my hotel room watching TV: the festival. In my case, jazz and dance festivals are what usually draw me, but I’d bet there are festivals for all types of music and arts all over the world.

In particular, the Riviera Maya Jazz Festival (RMJF) in Playa del Carmen, Mexico has been my choice for two years running. The combination of a beautiful and interesting destination, a range of accommodations (see “Check In” below) plus a really terrific line-up of performers for four nights, makes for a lively and satisfying vacation. (This year’s festival included such big name acts as Al Di Meola, George Duke, John McLaughlin and The Manhattan Transfer.)

John McLaughlin

The setting of the festival is the first thing that caught my attention. It’s held right on the beach in a stylish outdoor venue – Mamita’s Beach Club – and it’s big enough and has sufficient facilities to accommodate thousands of people a night. A giant stage with two huge video screens and a state-of-the-art sound system means even if you’re at the back of the crowd, you can still hear and see. (In fact, I found the sound a little muddy when I was right up front near the stage, so being further back is just fine.)

With over five hours of music on offer from 7 p.m. until midnight, there are a couple of ways you can approach the festival. Arrive early with your blanket and beverages (anything goes) and stake out your chunk of beach and settle in for the evening. Or–since there is no admission charge for the festival–you can come and go as you please. So if sitting on a beach for five hours is too much, you can swing by, see the first act, go have a bite to eat and come back later to check out more music.

You can also wander around the club checking out the scene. The people who come to the festival run the gamut from young locals (mostly) to whole families, to aging hipster tourists. Great people watching.

Check Out
Playa del Carmen is the hub of the Riviera Maya and a former fishing village that developed largely because the ferry to Cozumel docks there. Fifth Avenue is the main drag and a big strip of it is pedestrian-only and is packed with clothing and jewellery stores, restaurants and bars. Busy day and night, a woman on her own can feel completely comfortable walking at night. To escape the bustle, hang out near the north end which is more residential and upscale and has some very good cafes and restaurants, such as:

Chez Celine is an authentic French café with excellent pastries and coffee (and Paris prices).

Gambas al ajillo at Cueva del Chango

In a world of its own on a side street off of Fifth Avenue, La Cueva del Chango has a funky back garden, open kitchen and resident gato who will patiently sit by your chair until you feed her your leftover shrimp tails. Specializing in natural, whole food, the menu is mostly Mexican and offers margaritas made with freshly squeezed fruit juices. Grapefruit ruled.

Playa del Carmen - Mahekal Beach Resort

If snorkeling, sightseeing or cave diving are your scene, the Riviera Maya has much to offer. Unique to the region are cenotes (underwater caves) and you can take either a guided excursion or jump on a local bus and head to one of the sites such as Ecopark Kantun-Chi. Mayan culture and ruins abound in the area too, and the nearby village of Tulum is unique in that it has one of the only seaside ruins in Mexico.

Check In
The Riviera Maya has a range of accommodations from family-run B & Bs, to stylish boutique hotels to large, luxurious all-inclusives. Since the RMJF is in Playa del Carmen, it’s more convenient to stay nearby and walk to Mamita’s every night. But staying at one of the properties just outside of town is possible too, as long as you don’t mind taking taxis back and forth. Two places I stayed at recently are:

Mahekal Beach Resort

Mahekal Beach Resort is a mid-range, oceanfront property with a lovely laid-back vibe. A palapas style hotel with private casitas that come equipped with a hammock on the front porch. No TV, phone or Wi-Fi in the rooms mean a person can really unplug and relax here. A bar with pool tables, TV and ping pong, plus a lobby with computer, Wi-Fi and well-stocked library, provide plenty of diversion. A yoga studio is slated to open early in 2011, too. Upside: Mahekal offers single room rates, although not posted on its website; the resort is located in the quieter, more residential and upscale part of town. Downside: the food is just average, but the resort is within short walking distance of excellent cafes and restaurants.

Secrets Maroma Resort

The gorgeous Secrets Maroma is a large, all-inclusive property on Maroma Beach, north of Playa del Carmen on the way to Cancun. Tastefully decorated rooms, superior service and gourmet food are features of this luxury resort. Upside: private whirlpool on your balcony; premium alcohol brands. Downside: a 20-minute drive to Playa del Carmen makes taking in the jazz festival a bit of an excursion, but not insurmountable.

When the temperature drops, clever jazz fans look south

The crowd at Mamitas Beach Club enjoys the jazz festival

Baby it’s cold outside and if you’re starting to scope out tropical travel options and you like jazz, you should be checking out the Riviera Maya Jazz Festival.

I know when most of us think of Mexico the first thing that leaps to mind isn’t be-bop, but unlike many so-called jazz festivals, there is actual jazz at RMJF.

And if you’re a guitar fan, this year’s line-up is really going to pluck at your heart strings. The first night of the four-day fest features the darling of the fusionistas, Mike Stern. Then on November 26, it’s former Chick Corea band member turned nylon string global music master, Al Di Meola. On Saturday night, in an it’s-a-small-world thing, John McLaughlin, who back in the 80s collaborated with Di Meola (and flamenco guitar god Paco de Lucia), performs with his group the 4th Dimension.

But it’s not all about the guitar. Good ol’ George Duke will bring the funk on November 27, the same night the act I’m most looking forward to, The Manhattan Transfer, headlines. They released the challenging and beautiful Chick Corea Songbook late last year and I expect they’ll perform lots of songs from that disc as well as some of their great old hits.

All of the concerts are free and open-air and are held at either Mamitas Beach Club or the main plaza in Playa del Carmen.

Travel Info
Getting to the Mayan Riviera is easy for anyone within reach of a major airline hub. From Toronto Air Canada offers daily direct flights to Cancun and from there you can get a shuttle to the Mayan Riviera. There are also lots of package deals and charters too.

Torontonians kiss the cod at JUNO week

The JUNO Awards are taking place this weekend in St. John’s, Newfoundland and from the reports trickling through on social media from musicians who are there, it’s one heck of a party. While that isn’t surprising – St. John’s is a legendary party town – what is a bit surprising, and gratifying, is the range of music being honoured at the awards.

As Canada’s equivalent to the Grammy Awards, they have traditionally focused on some of the mainstream musical icons of this country, like Anne Murray and Gordon Lightfoot. And while they are both wonderful performers, there’s so much more variety and colour – shall we say – to the music being made in this country.

I credit Toronto and it’s renowned multiculturalism for being a strong influencer on the changing face of music. More and more we see collaborations of genres and cultures that result in new sounds that are fresh and innovative yet still honour traditions.

An example that springs to mind is the genius mashup of klezmer and Cuban music that’s heard on “Odessa/Havana,” Toronto-based trumpeter David Buchbinder’s collaboration with ex-pat Cuban piano master, Hilario Duran. Since that album was made in 2007 it doesn’t qualify for a Juno this year, but Duran and his trio are up for an award for Contemporary Jazz Album of the Year.

Other Toronto cultural hybrids nominated this year are “Trifecta,” a collaboration of guitarists from flamenco, bossa nova and rock backgrounds – Pavlo, Oscar Lopez and Rik Emmett, of Triumph fame and The Sultans of String’s “Yalla Yalla” which blends a whole bunch of genres like Latin, Gypsy–jazz, Middle Eastern and folk, in the Instrumental Album of the Year category.

Drummer Mark Kelso, nominated this year for his work with Duran’s trio said, “I’m having a great time here at the JUNOS! Have run into a lot of Toronto musicians here so far, like Roberto Occhipinti, Max Senitt, Chendy Leon, Dominic Mancuso, Tony Zorzi, Drew Birstin, Sundar Viswanathan, Darren Sigesmund, Peter Cardinali, Kevin LaLibertie, Bill Brennan, Lisa MacIsaac, Brenley MacEachern and Jim Cuddy. And this is just the first night!”

For World Music Album of the Year, Dominic Mancuso represents Toronto’s long-established Italian community with “Comfortably Mine,” a nod to his family’s Southern Italian roots with a North American sensibility. Jaffa Road is yet another example of a clever hybrid with “Sunplace” being a Middle Eastern, Indian, jazz, pop party.

The biggest rising star in the “world” music realm is Torontonian-Somalian K’Naan. His song Wavin’ Flag was chosen to be the anthem for the World Cup of soccer this year, and his album “Troubador” has been nominated in multiple categories.

Another thing that stands out about this year’s awards is the number of jazz albums and performers that are showing up in other categories. Diana Krall and Michael Bublé are both up for Artist of the Year.

And in the jazz categories, besides the aforementioned Hilario Duran, Toronto faves Emilie-Claire Barlow and Michael Kaeshammer have both been given the nod in the vocal category as have Terry Clarke and Kirk McDonald in traditional and modern, respectively.

The awards show will be broadcast on Sunday evening on CTV, but the real show is going on all week in St. John’s.

Beyond Tacos: A Culinary Tour in Mexico

One of the best ways to get to know a region and its culture is through its food. For many, when they think of Mexican food, tacos, enchiladas and other Tex-Mex delights spring to mind. And although those dishes have their place, Mexican cuisine is so much more than that.

The charming colonial city of Oaxaca has become a mecca for foodies and several top-notch cooking schools can be found there. One of the best known, “Seasons of My Heart” is run by American ex-pat Susana Trilling. Another option is to take a fully escorted tour that encompasses cooking, visits to markets and jaunts in the surrounding countryside. One such offering “A Caliente Cooks’ Tour” is happening in May 2010 and includes classes with multiple chefs and visits to the finest restaurants in Oaxaca. It would be a marvelous introduction to the region and the cuisine for someone who enjoys a fully guided experience.